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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.