Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city downtown.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Across the Globe

So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding farming plots inside urban environments," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Grapes

Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 vines perched on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Jason Adams
Jason Adams

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